o fortu Koro-Toro. Zaproszeni przez dowódcę rozkoszujemy się<br />chłodem wewnątrz murów. Podczas obiadu usługuje, nie, to nieodpowiednie<br />określenie &#8212; po prostu dyskretnie celebruje przy posiłku żona komendanta<br />fortu. Piękna, wysoka, o królewskich ruchach, czarna dziewczyna. Mąż,<br />widząc nasze pełne zachwytu spojrzenia i domyślając się rzucanych<br />półgębkiem uwag, z dumą oświadcza, że żonę sprowadził aż z plemienia<br />Tussi, znad jeziora Kiwu (Ruanda Urundi). Posterunek mieści się w wielkim,<br />pomalowanym na biało forcie. Czworobok paro-metrowych murów wyrastających<br />z piasku, otoczony wypełniającym go stopniowo, wzgórzem piasku. Na nim<br />zespolone ściśle z murami, wyciętymi w blanki i strzelnice, wieńczą go<br />zabudowania połączone w jeden labirynt z kwadratowym dziedzińcem. Tu<br />mieszczą się izby zajmowane przez komendanta, sala rozpraw i przyjęć,<br />pokoje gościnne, koszary (przez cały dzień zobaczyłem 2 żołnierzy &#8212; byłoby<br />nietaktem pytać komendanta o &#8222;stan załogi", ale przypuszczam, że nie<br />przerastał on o 25% tego, co widzieliśmy), dalej magazyny, kuchnia i<br />więzienie, od którego klucza jeden z żołnierzy bezowocnie poszukiwał już<br />od dwóch godzin, a aresztowany w tym czasie siedział sobie przed fortem na<br />wydmie razem z rodziną, aż wściekły na niezdarnego żołnierza komendant<br />kazał mu się wynosić do Szejtana. Od frontu bastionu &#8212; parę chałupek 20<br />stałych mieszkańców osady, studnia obudowana dachem i ścianami, a gdzieś<br />tam dalej o 705 km (tak wynika z obliczeń) Fort Lamy. Reszta to piasek. Z<br />lewej strony piaski, z prawej, tuż pod murem dwa kolczaste drzewka i znów<br />piasek aż do horyzontu, z tyłu... piasek... piasek... aż do Morza<br />Śródziemnego, te drobne 3050 km. To wszystko nakryte czapą słonecznych<br />promyków tak grzejących, że śmierć w lodówce wydaje się rozkosznym zgonem.<br />Tak wygląda egzotyczny fort. Obrazu dopełnia daleki, jękliwy ton<br />przesypywanych wiatrem piasków. Najbliższą okolicę wiatry omijają przez<br />większą część doby, co mogło być jedną z przyczyn obrania miejsca na<br />budowę fortu. Jest to też miejsce z wodą i kończą się tu wielkie,<br />wędrujące wydmy, a zaczyna równina, lekko pofałdowana, przechodząca w<br />pustynną sawannę.<br />W Koro-Toro, prócz miłych wspomnień, pozostawiłem lub, być może,<br />&#8222;pozostawiono mi" telek, mały sztylet, otrzymany w prezencie od jednego z<br />poznanych nomadów w Tibesti. Taki sztylet na skórzanej opasce, prostej lub<br />splatanej, noszą mężczyźni na lewym przedramieniu. Miałem go w kabinie<br />obok siedzenia. Mógł sam wypaść w czasie wysiadania na trasie lub po<br />prostu zniknął, gdy STAR stał cały dzień przed fortem. Był to jedyny<br />niejasny przypadek w okresie całej wyprawy.<br />Żegnani przez gościnnego komendanta, jego żonę i małego synka, robimy<br />gospodarzom zdjęcia. Ruszamy, obdarowani na drogę wielkim udźcem, lekko<br />podwędzonym, jakiegoś zwierzaka oraz pieczątką w dzienniku ekspedycji: &#8222;l<br />Regiment du Tchad Koro-Toro &#8212; Chef de Poste". Z informacją, że czasami z<br />Fort Lamy, raz lub dwa razy w miesiącu, przyjeżdża tu samochód, zanurzamy<br />się w piaski. Przez Faya Largeau do Fort Lamy stolicy Czadu. Tam skończy<br />się pustynia. Przejechaliśmy podobno najtrudniejsze odcinki,<br />przejechaliśmy je bez jakiejkolwiek awarii samochodu. Jestem mu za to<br />wdzięzny. Człowiek i maszyna dotarli tam, gdzie jeszcze są pierwotne ślady<br />człowieka i narzędzia. Samochód, to współczesne narzędzie na co dzień<br />człowieka 20 wieku, pomagał odnajdywać ślady naszych praprzodków.<br />Pomimo że przebyłem całą trasę bez jakiejkolwiek awarii, drugi raz, ze<br />względu na ryzykowne warunki, nie zdecydowałbym się na jazdę taką trasą<br />tylko jednym samochodem. Chyba że przebiegałaby ona przez... pustynię<br />Kalahari.<br /><br />Dobieslaw Walknowski<br />----------------------------------------------<br />Mgr Dobieslaw Walknowski, projektant form przemysłowych, podróżnik i<br />etnograf, w latach 1963&#8212;1970 brał udział w odległych wyprawach<br />podejmowanych na polskich samochodach ciężarowych &#8222;Star-25" i &#8222;Star-66".<br />Przemierzał w nich jako uczestnik ekspedycji paleontologicznych PAN<br />bezdroża Mongolii (1963, 1964, 1965), jako uczestnik ekspedycji Klubu<br />Wysokogórskiego w Hindukusz &#8212; góry Afganistanu (1966), jako kierownik<br />polsko-węgierskiej wyprawy badawczej &#8212; bezludne obszary Afryki (1967) i<br />wreszcie jako kierownik zorganizowanej przez &#8222;Polmot" podróży<br />akwizycyjno-doświadczalnej &#8212; kraje Bliskiego Wschodu oraz Środkowej i<br />Południowej Azji (1970).<br />Obok zamieszczamy spisane specjalnie dla Czytelników &#8222;M.T." jego wrażenia<br />z najtrudniejszej próby, którą i dla człowieka, i dla maszyny było<br />pokonanie Sahary</td>
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Strona  195 z&nbsp;313: <a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=0'>1</a>...<a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1910'>192</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1920'>193</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1930'>194</a><span><strong>195</strong></span><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1950'>196</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1960'>197</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1970'>198</a>...<a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=3120'>313</a>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c157557' id='c157557' name='c157557'>#1941</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>asdasds</span>
<span class='small'>dnia listopad 27 2023 09:53:38</span>
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Your site is truly cool and this is an extraordinary moving article<br />
<a href='https://mtk1ller.com/' target='_blank' title='https://mtk1ller.com/'>&amp;#47673;&amp;#53888;&amp;#49324;&amp;#51060;&amp;#53944; &amp;#51452;&amp;#49548;</a></div>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c157560' id='c157560' name='c157560'>#1942</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>fsdfsdfsd</span>
<span class='small'>dnia listopad 27 2023 10:53:19</span>
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Thank you a bunch for sharing this with all of us you actually realize what you are talking about! Bookmarked. <br />
<a href='https://newtoki.tv/' target='_blank' title='https://newtoki.tv/'>&amp;#45684;&amp;#53664;&amp;#45180;</a></div>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c157564' id='c157564' name='c157564'>#1943</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>fsdfsdf</span>
<span class='small'>dnia listopad 27 2023 11:36:29</span>
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I would like to say that this blog really convinced me to do it! Thanks, very good post<br />
<a href='https://oncacity.com/' target='_blank' title='https://oncacity.com/'>&amp;#52852;&amp;#51648;&amp;#45432; &amp;#50732;&amp;#51064;&amp;#53664;&amp;#53664;</a></div>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c157800' id='c157800' name='c157800'>#1944</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>TINY FISHING</span>
<span class='small'>dnia listopad 29 2023 01:59:34</span>
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I usually watch them to learn something new and then play https://tiny-fishing.co/ for fun; if you&#39;re looking for a good knockout game, you should give it a shot. Make the boys think they&#39;re smarter than you do.</div>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c157826' id='c157826' name='c157826'>#1945</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>Pandora Christmas</span>
<span class='small'>dnia listopad 29 2023 05:53:41</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c157971' id='c157971' name='c157971'>#1946</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>james</span>
<span class='small'>dnia listopad 30 2023 03:58:28</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c158144' id='c158144' name='c158144'>#1947</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>link resmi</span>
<span class='small'>dnia grudzień 01 2023 03:10:21</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c158151' id='c158151' name='c158151'>#1948</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>ini klik555</span>
<span class='small'>dnia grudzień 01 2023 04:12:21</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c158164' id='c158164' name='c158164'>#1949</a> |
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<span class='small'>dnia grudzień 01 2023 06:15:39</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=1940#c158324' id='c158324' name='c158324'>#1950</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>mtom</span>
<span class='small'>dnia grudzień 02 2023 07:45:31</span>
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